Krabi

We left Cambodia and it’s lovely people (well in Siem Reap anyway) after a fabulous afternoon hanging out at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club. Where we spent the afternoon lazily watching the river traffic pass by along the Mekong and the frantic chaos of the streets below. We were also able catch up on the international newspapers and explore the art museum next door before we flew back to Thailand that evening. Thai Airways even managed not to lose our bags or force us to run through airports so I foolishly thought that things were starting to look up! The next day we flew to Krabi (again no incident with Thai Air!) and our hotel was absolute tropical opulence, I was beside myself with glee! We spent the day down at the pool and on the beach. It was the most wonderful day. I lounged by the pool and on the beach reading a trashy chick lit book that I borrowed from the hotel library, whilst Ross went for a walk exploring the length of the beach. He was gone for hours. We then swam in the ocean with the hotel’s baby elephant “Lala." After that glorious day by the pool and on the beach we had a fabulous seafood dinner at a restaurant tucked in amongst the palm trees along the beach a couple of hundred metres from the hotel .We looked out at the "James Bond islands" poking out from the ocean and watched the sunset whilst eating the most delicious meal. We were both so relaxed and happy, (although we had some fabulous meals at the Soup Dragon in Siem Reap), it was just all so easy after Cambodia. We made plans with a local boat owner to go out in the morning for a tour of the islands and a snorkel and then went back to the hotel to the outdoor cinema where we relaxed in hammocks and the staff wrapped us in warm towels and fed us ice creams whilst we watched a movie. Yes – that is what this hotel was like which is why I couldn’t believe what happened the next morning…

Tong le Sap

Sunrise over a floating village on the Tong Le Sap

On our last day in Cambodia we caught a boat up the river from Siem Reap to Pnomh Penh, where I was conceived and spent the first few months of my life. The boat journey was quite long and I spent the time day dreaming about being pregnant. We left our hostel very early that morning and got a bus to the river where we were to catch the boat. As it was the dry season, we first boarded a small fishing boat at the jetty point that was to take us out to the floating village. From the village we would then board a bigger boat that would transport us to Pnomh Penh. The floating village was indeed unique. A traditional Cambodian village but floating on the water, complete with shop houses and a school. We even passed school children in crisp white starched shirts and navy shorts on various assorted water craft (I use the term loosely) making their way to a floating school. When we got to the big boat there were small children on the floating wharf (in the middle of what appeared to be an inland sea), selling the most delicious fresh French loaves, plastic cheese triangles (????), bananas and bottles of water. I suggested to Ross that we should buy some supplies as we did not know how long the journey was going to be. He declined, fortunately I decided to get myself some snacks as the journey took the whole day. When we saw the boat and realized that there was only the one boat and a tonne of people, I reminded Ross of Maria (Veronica’s Mum’s) suggestion that we jump on to the roof of the boat. Very sound advice. We were the first people to climb up onto the roof of the boat and I am so glad that we did. For those sitting inside, the tin shed like cabin would have been similar to sitting inside an oven (or coffin…). We were on that boat for 9 hours in the full sun (which was doubly strong reflecting back off the water onto us). At least on top of the boat we had fresh air, although we had no shade. Fortunately Ross and I both had hats and sunblock, even so we both still got horribly sunburnt and dehydrated. The other reason why it was great advice to sit on top of that boat was for safety. The boat was easily carrying more than ten times the recommended amount of passengers. If it suddenly sunk in the middle of our journey at least on top we would have had some chance of survival. I doubt that there were any lifejackets on that boat though and for most of the journey I was unable to see land on any horizon, so I would not have liked to hazard our chances of survival. Once we finally left the emptiness of traveling across the giant lake we started to make our way along the river where we were able to gaze at life along the riverbank. Many small children waved at us as we passed and we saw temples, more floating villages, fishermen and also the police. When we passed the police boat we witnessed an exchange of third world corruption first hand. A deck hand on our boat tossed a plastic water bottle full of wads of cash over to the police boat – in front of everyone. Corruption for all to see!

Cambodia

We continued our honeymoon in Cambodia exploring the temples of the Angkor Wat complex. Truly amazing. Although the site is famous for the Angkor Wat temple I found the most extraordinary temples to be Ta Prohm and Bayon . At Bayon I truly felt like I was walking amongst the Gods. At every angle there is a serene face glancing benignly towards you. Ta Prohm was incredible for it’s crumbling splendour. Huge trees growing out of the temple ruins with roots climbing over walls and floors, creating an environment that was part peaceful temple and part deepest jungle. It literally was straight out of a movie, they filmed scenes from Tomb Raider at Ta Prohm. Huot, our guide, told us that when they first found Ta Prohm the backpackers would camp amongst the ruins. The only noise disturbing the serene peace of the temples the endless chatter of mischevious monkeys who had made their homes amongst the walls of the temples. Just like in the Jungle Book! That would have been an incredible experience, although I believe we were very lucky to walk amongst the ruins the way that we did. It will not be long before that luxury is prevented in order to protect the temples from thieves and from general damage from tourists. Whilst exploring the Angkor Wat temple, we were climbing the stairs to the upper tier of the temple, which were extremely steep, and suddenly I had a mild panic attack half way up. I questioned what I was doing, could I be putting the baby in danger? I was so concerned that I immediately reversed back down the stairs, clinging on to the temple structure like a crab, fearing that I would fall and hurt the baby somehow! I then found a side up the temple that included a rope (provided to assist elderly American tourists) and used that to get up to where Ross and Huot were patiently waiting for me!

Bangkok (forget that hostel from the beach...)

Ross is taking over all responsibility for booking accommodation on any future holidays...Embarassingly, I had not booked any accommodation in Bangkok… Ross was furious with me when we were walking down Khao San Road at 2 0’clock in the morning with our backpacks trying to find somewhere to stay! Looking back now, I am not quite sure what I was thinking (as the same thing had happened to me last time I went to Bangkok with Veronica, less than 4 months ago too, hmmm can’t believe that I am sharing this information with everyone!) We finally found a hostel that had two single beds. (Perfect for a honeymooning couple). I was starting to be furious with myself by this time. I couldn’t believe that I might be jeopardizing the health of my baby. I had responsibilities now! I was trying to be positive and seeing the entire event as quite humorous and in keeping with my desire to be spontaneous and my hatred of travel agents and itinerarys. Ross was not sharing this enthusiasm however and mine was certainly starting to wane by the time we finally found somewhere to sleep. Well “somewhere” was horrible. Imagine the worst flea bitten, filthy third world backpacker joint you can and there you go…that’s where Ross and I spent the first night of our honeymoon and my first night knowing I was pregnant. I kept putting my hand on my stomach as if to reassure you that it was all going to be okay. We hardly slept that night and we both slept fully clothed. In retrospect it is quite funny (now) actually!

Pregnant?

The Captain's story is written in retrospect. It began years ago... in February 2005. I figured out that I was pregnant on the day that Ross and I left on our honeymoon. I was in the bedroom packing my bag for our holiday and suddenly, somehow I just knew that I was pregnant. I stood in the bedroom, surrounded by my entire wardrobe strewn about the room. (I know, a flight attendant really should be a more accomplished packer!) and was overwhelmed by the path that now lay before me. There was the incredible sense of wonder at the new world that was developing inside me and incredibly, there was an already present sense of responsibility. I tried to work out the day that we had conceived and established that it was the 3rd of February. A marvellous day and what a wonderful birthday present for Ross!

Veronica's friend, Linda, was working up the front and kindly brought us down champagne and cheeses from first class. I was almost impatient with her inability to notice that I wasn't drinking. I wanted to shout out to the whole world that we were expecting a baby... common sense told me to wait for the time being though.